Separation anxiety is often triggered by a traumatic event or disruption in the dog’s lifestyle, such as a change in the family’s work schedule, an adjustment in the family composition, the death of another pet, a move to a new home, or being boarded or hospitalized for a period of time. Purebreds are more likely to suffer from separation anxiety than mixed breeds, and adult dogs who have been re-homed are especially at risk.

Step-by-step method to ease separation anxiety

The most effective treatment for a dog with separation anxiety is to accustom the dog to very short periods of time alone. While at the same time, you must pair the experience of being alone with something wonderful, such as his favorite treats. For this exercise, you’ll need some hollow toys into which you will stuff tasty treats; these are readily available at pet supply stores. Just before you walk out the door, scatter a selection of toys around the room. Step out the door and wait for no more than 30 seconds to one minute. Come back in. If your dog is still working on the toys, excellent! Remove the toys so the dog learns that he only has access to them when he’s alone. Repeat several times each day, gradually increasing the time you are outside the home. Periodically revert back to shorter times so that the dog is forever hopeful that you’ll be right back. Take things slowly! You should initially increase the time you’re away by only seconds, and then work up to minutes. When you hit 30 minutes, begin to take jumps of five minutes. When you achieve two hours, take jumps of 15 minutes. When you can be out of the home for four hours and your dog stays relaxed, you can probably be gone for a full eight-hour day. Continue to leave food toys that will occupy the dog for at least 20-30 minutes.

You will greatly increase the chances of successful treatment if you make arrangements for your dog to be with someone whenever you have to be away from home for longer than your dog is prepared to handle. For instance, take the dog to doggy daycare, hire a sitter to stay with him, or take him with you.

If your dog isn’t interested in the food toys, just ignore him and retrieve the toys. Wait 20 minutes or so and try again. If your dog won’t eat from the toys when he’s alone—even after you’ve skipped feeding him one meal, and you’re confident he’s hungry and likes the food you’ve left him—then your dog has a more serious case of separation anxiety and you will need to seek the help of a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, Veterinary Behaviorist, or Certified Professional Dog Trainer. Your dog may need drug therapy in addition to behavior modification to help him.

Should you leave your dog in a crate?

Placing your dog in a crate when you go out may prevent destructive behavior or stop him from escaping. However, he will still feel anxious and may howl, bark, and soil in the crate. Some dogs will even panic and injure themselves trying to escape from the crate. If your dog is accustomed to a crate and treats it as a “safe haven,” then it would probably help to use a crate. Place the dog in the crate and go through the steps as outlined above.

What to do:
- Whenever you are getting ready to leave the house, make your routine less predictive and obvious. You can ignore the dog, practice obedience behaviors, such as “Sit” and “Down Stay,” or distract the dog with a chew bone or toy.

- Keep your departures and arrivals low key so the dog doesn’t associate comings and goings with arousal and stress.

- Practice short absences and gradually build up the time you are gone.

- Use reward-based training, practice out-of-sight “Sit” and “Down Stays” around the house so you can be in one room and the dog in another.

- When not training the dog and, until you have the problem resolved, arrange for someone to be with the dog at all times when you are away.

- Teach the dog mannerly ways to gain your attention, such as “Sit,” “Down,” and “Bring a toy.” If your dog has learned to gain your attention when you’re home by barking, pawing, and mouthing, then it should come as no surprise that your dog has temper tantrums when you’re away.

- Give your dog plenty of physical exercise before leaving your dog for lengthy periods of time, especially if you leave first thing in the morning.

What not to do:
- Do not confuse your dog’s anxiety with revenge, spite, or dominance. Your dog is genuinely upset and distressed and needs your help. Punishment will only exacerbate the dog’s anxiety.

- Do not continue to confine your dog to a crate or room if the dog is injuring himself trying to escape.

- Do not attempt to reduce your dog’s attachment to you by constantly ignoring him. Some experts believe that “breaking the bond” will fix separation anxiety. This can actually make the dog become even more desperate for your affections. If done repeatedly, this approach can even be inhumane—because canines so need social contact.

Related Articles:
- Don’t Leave Me This Way: Separation Anxiety

Copyright © 2008. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals® (ASPCA®).  All Rights Reserved.

    There are a number of exercises you can try with your pet to maintain and/or shed your pet’s extra pounds this winter season. Like us, we don’t enjoy piling on those extra pounds during winters; so, don’t let your pet become unhealthy and slovenly this winter.

    There are lots of alternatives in keeping your pet trim. You may want to consider placing your pet on a diet, for example, organic food is expensive, but has important health benefits for your pet or look for any kind of food that is low-cal, high in protein.  Also, exercising with your pet is key to maintaining and even keeping off the pounds. As a pet parent you should make it a priority to exercise with your pet at least four or more times a week. Join in on playful games with your pet like Frisbee, soccer or simply a brisk or peaceful walk with your pet will help curb your pet’s weight in the long run. Having a slovenly pet in your home will do no one any good, so get your pet out there and mingle with the rest of them. You may both meet a new friend!  J

       In addition to a low-cal diet and exercising, your pet needs recognition for his achievements like most animals, so reward your pet when he/she does achieve his/her goal. For example, a day at a pet spa or a special snack might suffice. Treating your pet with recognition of his/her goals will only motivate your pet to do better. So, let the “games” begin…

Content Written By Christina Miller

The vast majority of dog bites are from a dog known to the child—his or her own pet, a neighbor’s or friend’s. You can help prevent this from happening to your child. Please discuss with him or her the appropriate way to behave around dogs. The following activity will help you and your child understand the difference between safe and potentially dangerous interactions with dogs.

The following is a list of pledges that you can recite with your child:

1. I will not stare into a dog’s eyes.
2. I will not tease dogs behind fences.
3. I will not go near dogs chained up in yards.
4. I will not touch a dog I see loose (off-leash) outside.
5. If I see a loose dog, I will tell an adult immediately.
6. I will not run and scream if a loose dog comes near me.
7. I will stand very still (like a tree), and will be very quiet if a dog comes near me.
8. I will not touch or play with a dog while he or she is eating.
9. I will not touch a dog when he or she is sleeping.
10. I will only pet a dog if I have received permission from the dog’s owner.
11. Then I will ask permission of the dog by letting him sniff my closed hand.

Activity Sheet
May I Pet the Dog?
Help your child understand the difference between safe and potentially dangerous interactions with dogs.

Copyright © 2008. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals® (ASPCA®).  All Rights Reserved.

I hope these give you new options for helping to help your pet’s separation anxiety. But remember– both of these toy treats should be given occasionally while you stay at home so they themselves don’t become a cue that your leaving!

Content Written by Jane Manfredi, DVM

Your Best Bet
You can be more confident that a dog will accept other animals in the home if the dog has lived with other animals in the past. Puppies who were raised with cats or other small pets are much less likely to prey on them. For instance, if your puppy grows up with rabbits, as an adult he will be less likely than a dog who did not grow up with them to chase and kill a rabbit. However, some dogs will learn to accept a particular rabbit, but not other rabbits. There are also dogs who are completely trustworthy with the family cat, but would chase and kill any other cat.

Warning Signs
Watch for certain behaviors in the dog that indicate he might not be compatible with small animals:
- The dog has killed another animal.
- The dog is aggressively possessive over food, toys, chew bones, or even the water bowl. - When on walks, the dog is obsessed with chasing squirrels, rats or rabbits.
- When excited, the dog becomes unruly, uncontrollable, and doesn’t listen.
- When on walks, the dog stares intently at other animals, and perhaps even stalks them.

Introduce Gradually
For introductions, the general rule is to proceed slowly! Enlist the assistance of a family member or friend so there is a person to control each animal in the room. If you don’t have someone to help, confine the small pet (cat or other small pet) in a cage or behind a secure gate. Have the dog on a 4- or 6-foot leash. Have tasty treats (chicken, liver, cheese, etc.) for the dog within reach. Practice each step for a minimum of 10-15 minutes. Remain at this level until the dog is able to stay relaxed and focused on you for at least five minutes at a time. If the dog is unable to remain calm do not progress to the next step.

1. Have the small pet settled in one room, at the far end from the door, attended by your assistant. Bring the dog in the room and remain by the door. Sit down on the floor with the dog and engage the dog to interact with you. Ask the dog to sit, stay down, and any other commands he might know. Keep his interest. Praise him for paying attention to you. Stroke him if this helps him to relax. If the dog is more interested in the other pet and will not attend to you, use treats to entice the dog to turn away from the pet to face you.

2. With the dog paying attention to you, have your assistant entice your small pet to walk a few feet back and forth. If the pet will not move willingly, the assistant can support the animal comfortably and hold him just above the floor. Move the animal a short distance. Permit the dog to look, and then try to redirect the dog back onto you. Use treats if necessary. Help the dog to stay calm and relaxed, even while watching the pet move about.

3. Move the dog one to two feet closer to the pet. See that the dog stays calm for five minutes, and then have the pet move around a bit. The dog should look at the pet while remaining calm, and then, turn and listen to you while you talk to him. Praise and/or offer him a treat. Allow the dog to look at the pet again and gain his attention back to you. Continue until the dog is comfortable looking at the pet and looking back at you, all the while remaining calm and controlled.

4. If possible, allow the pet to move freely about the room. Do not do this if the pet is inclined to approach you. Can the dog still remain calm and relaxed? Can the dog see the animal moving about and still switch his attention back to you? If so, great! If not, stay at the previous step longer. If, at any time, the pet attempts to approach within the dog’s range, have the assistant move the pet away. To be safe, you do not want the dog and pet sniffing for the first time while the dog is sitting or lying next to you, especially if he knows there are treats nearby.

5. Stand up and allow the dog to move to the end of his leash. Continue to speak to him intermittently to be sure he will pay attention to you. If the pet approaches the dog, allow them to sniff noses. Keep the dog’s leash loose so he doesn’t feel that he is restrained. However, be very vigilant because if the dog lunges at the animal, you need to be close enough to pull the dog away before contact is made. If the other pet is so small or fragile, and/or the dog so large or powerful that the dog could kill it or inflict serious damage with one bite, have the dog wear a muzzle when they first meet. While the dog is sniffing the pet, call him to you. If he turns and comes away from the pet, fabulous! If he needs a bit of coaxing, that’s okay–as long as he is able to focus on you once you get his attention. If the dog becomes totally engrossed in the animal and won’t come away, then go back to a previous step and work at that level a bit longer before trying this step again.

6. The final step is to allow the animals to interact more freely. Begin with short periods of time together, especially after the dog has been well exercised. Keep a close eye on the dog. To be absolutely risk-free, muzzle the dog until you are confident that he will not harm the other pet. As you gain more confidence, give the animals more time together. Make sure there are plenty of escape routes and safety refuges for the small pet, such as kitty condos, shelves and areas behind furniture to which the dog cannot reach.

7. We’ve heard numerous anecdotes of dogs who were fine with a small pet until the animals were left alone together. We recommend that you keep the dog crated or otherwise confined away from the other pet during your absences. It is not sufficient to keep the small pet caged and the dog loose. The dog could harass and frighten the pet, or even break into the cage.

Copyright © 2008. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals® (ASPCA®).  All Rights Reserved.

City-dwelling dogkeepers are faced with greater challenges than their suburban and rural counterparts. Without a large, fenced yard for exercise, the city dweller must take to the streets three or more times a day with Fido or Fifi in tow. Crowded sidewalks replete with joggers, construction scaffolding and double-wide strollers turn each outing into an obstacle course. The following tips will make walks safer and more enjoyable for you, your dog and your neighbors.

It’s the Law

Most cities and counties have some form of leash, license and pick-up-after-your-dog laws. These ordinances are designed to protect both the dog and the community at large. When leashed, a dog is safe from traffic and unable to follow his instincts to chase children, investigate garbage cans or dig up landscaping. Whether a dog is friendly or aggressive, a leash keeps him in check and allows the public to pass undisturbed. Some communities have leash-length restrictions. Whether it’s the law or not, keep leashes to six feet or less on public sidewalks. Retractable leashes should not be used in areas frequented by joggers, skaters or cyclists; the thin line blends into the background and,all too often, athlete and dog collide.

Licensing a dog enables an animal control agency to return a lost pet to his rightful owner. Also, licensing fees often support local animal control efforts. In addition, the number of licenses issued gives government officials an idea of how many dogs are in the community, statistics that are very helpful when planning dog runs, shelter expansions and the like.

Pooper-scooper laws are essential for both the health and beautification of the community. Canine diseases and parasites are often shed in feces, which puts other dogs and children at risk. And no one enjoys maneuvering through unsightly piles of dog waste when out for a stroll. Pick up feces using a plastic bag, and knot the top to control odor and flies before disposing of it in a waste receptacle. Train your dog to urinate in gutters or on nonliving vertical surfaces, such as lampposts or hydrants. Avoid trees and flowerbeds.

Etiquette Lessons and Safety Tips

The well-trained city dog needs to respond to a minimum of four basic commands: “Sit-Stay,” “Heel,” “Leave it” and “Come.” When you’re waiting at a traffic light, a dog in a sitstay is out of harm’s way. And while walking nicely on a loose leash is enough for most forays, there are times when your dog will need to be at heel position, which keeps her under control at your side.

The command “Leave it” is employed when it is necessary for Fido to avert his gaze. Whether he’s being tantalized by chicken bones or a jogger, getting your dog to break eye contact with “forbidden fruit” before he acts enables you to draw his attention to safer rewards and pursuits. Or, should the dog slip his collar or break his leash, a recall command (“Come”) could save his life. Most, if not all, of these commands are taught in basic obedience/manners class. Contact your local shelter for a referral to a class near you.

Remember that dogs can be frightened by sudden loud noises, such as running children, motorcycles, skateboarders and in-line skaters, to name a few. Be aware that such situations may demand quick and complete control on your part to prevent your dog from lunging or biting.

Before leaving home to run errands with your dog by your side, take a moment to consider which places permit dogs and which do not. For your pet’s safety, leave him at home when he is not allowed to go into an establishment with you. A dog left tied to a post or parking meter is an easy target for teasing or theft.

Remember the Good Neighbor Policy

Keep in mind that not everyone loves dogs, so it’s up to the urban dogkeeper to present a dog who is well-socialized and under control. When riding in an elevator, sit your dog in a far corner to avoid door-dashing each time the elevator makes a stop. Do not allow Fido to jump up on other riders, even when the greeting is friendly. Hurry through lobbies or take freight elevators and back exits if the building rules mandate it. Never allow your dog to soil in front of the building’s entrance. If you have a young pup or dog-in-training who can’t control himself, be sure to carry paper towels and odor neutralizer.

Many dogs enjoy the company of other canines, but always ask before allowing your animal to launch himself at another dog—for both their sakes. The same is true regarding children. First ask the child or her parent, “May my dog say hello to you?” before allowing physical contact. The greeting should not include jumping, bouncing off or grabbing at the child—even if it is done in the spirit of friendliness. If your dog is physically challenging, consider using a head halter for better control.

When we choose to keep dogs in crowded urban areas, we take on additional responsibilities. Unfortunately, when little consideration is shown for the neighbors, more doors close to dogkeepers. On the other hand, with a little training and thoughtfulness, more businesses and public areas will begin to put out the welcome mat for both you and your dog.

Copyright © 2008. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals® (ASPCA®).  All Rights Reserved.

1. You Better Shop Around
Stock up on supplies before Fido arrives! Your new pal won’t need much—the Burberry overcoat and crystal tiara are optional—but essentials include food and water bowls, safe chew toys, grooming tools, a collar and leash, an identification tag and a crate with bedding (towels will do if you don’t want to spend money on a fancy crate pad).

When it comes to food, try to buy the same brand he’s already eating. If you want to change foods, make the switch gradually, mixing old food with new, over a period of a few weeks.

2. Divvy Up Responsibilities
To avoid conflict when Princess has to go out at 1:00 A.M., powwow with members of your household about who is going to be responsible for what. Who will walk the dog at various times of times of day? Who will feed the dog, and at what times? Who will take the dog to the vet? And if it’s you who winds up walking her in the middle of a rainy night, slap on a smile and remember—pet parenting is a privilege, not a chore!

3. My House, My Rules
Establish house rules for the dog that everyone will stick to. Before poochie comes home, decide things such as: Is she allowed on the furniture? Will we ever give her “people” food? What behaviors are encouraged, and which are forbidden? Consistency is the key to training dogs.

4. Lost In Translation
Dogs can get confused when one human says “down” and another says “off” when, for example, they jump on visitors. Then there’s “down” versus “lie down,” and “paw” versus “shake”—surely you see how this is perplexing to another species! Do Fido a favor and select the terms that you plan to associate with various commands. It’ll help to write out a vocabulary list of the words that everyone will use.

5. Safety First
Dog-proof your pup’s environment. Tuck electrical cords out of the way, install safety latches in lower kitchen cabinets, etc. Make sure anything dangerous to ingest—like small decorative items, children’s toys and chemicals—is off floor level. Some people find it helps to get down on the floor for a dog’s-eye view of every room to see what might tempt a curious canine.

6. Pardon Me, Where Is Your Restroom?
If your new pooch is not yet housetrained, determine where his indoor “potty spot” will be. Figure out your plan to train him, and coordinate with the entire household.

7. Hit the Floor
It’s a good idea to mop your floors with odor-neutralizing solution shortly before bring home a new dog. Even dogs who are trained sometimes are compelled, either through territorial instincts or plain old nerves, to let loose in a new home. Be sure that you don’t mop with cleaners containing ammonia—these are believed to encourage peeing.

8. Make It Official
Find out about your community’s dog licensing rules and apply for a license. This information can usually be found by visiting your state’s department of agriculture website. You can also ask your local shelter for the straight dope.

9. Set the Date
If you don’t already have one, find a good veterinarian—and bring your new canine to a caring veterinarian for a wellness exam within one week after adoption. Make this appointment even before you bring home your new pup.

10. Sibling Rivalry
This one’s for folks who already have a dog in the home. Before you introduce the new hound into the pack, pick up anything your resident dog might guard, such as food bowls, bones, toys and beds. Even if your dog has never exhibited possessive tendencies, it is best to exercise caution. This may be an intense experience for your resident canine, so do be patient with her

Copyright © 2008. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals® (ASPCA®).  All Rights Reserved.

·         When is it just too much?

You want to consider a spritz on your pet…just a spritz!  If your dog is sensitive to cologne or you feel the scent is too heavy, you may want to consider a spritz which is a more dilute version of a dog cologne. This may be a nice alternative if your dog sneezes or appears irritated by the use of dog colognes. Again, look for an all natural product without ingredients that will cause irritation to the eyes, mucous membranes, or skin. Apply cologne appropriately.  Use common sense when applying dog cologne or cologne spritz to your dog’s fur. Avoid spraying his face or eyes since this can cause irritation to the delicate mucous membranes. Apply scent as lightly as possible to avoid overwhelming your dog with smells that may not be pleasant to him. Since most dogs aren’t enthusiastic about being sprayed with scent (they rather like their natural odor), give your dog lots of pats and positive reinforcement once the job is done.

·         What to look for in your pet’s cologne?

You should look for ingredients that condition fur and skin. Some colognes and spritz sprays have ingredients that condition your dog’s fur and help to relieve dry irritated skin. Look for ingredients such as jojoba oil, shea butter, aloe, almond oil, vitamin E, and vegetable glycerine. The addition of essential oils can also have positive benefits on the condition of your dog’s skin and fur. If you do choose a product with essential oils, resist the urge to use it on your cat. Certain essential oils can be toxic to cats.

While eating organic food for humans has proven very beneficial, pet parents wonder how organic food could help their pet live a happy and healthier life.  There has been speculation that some of the top benefits of giving your pet organic food could be the following:  

·         Reduction of skin ailments and allergies.

·         More energy and a healthy weight. 

·         Fewer digestive disorders.

·         Better overall health and stronger immunity. 

·         Quality of Life and Longevity. 

Talk to your veterinarian about any pending questions you may have about the current research and/or health benefits of organic pet food before you decide to give your pet organic food.

First of all, it’s quite a gamble. Your company/provider is hoping you won’t need to use it while you are hoping quite the contrary due to limits and the fine print.  Fortunately, many pet health insurance plans allow you to use any veterinarian you choose. The three companies listed affirm on their web sites that you have a free choice of veterinarians: 

·         Veterinary Pet Insurance

·         PetCare Pet Insurance Programs

·         Pets Best Insurance

Many plans are not “one size fits all,” so, be sure to speak with your veterinarian about which plan is best suited for your pet.  Some companies will charge a flat deductible of $50 to $100, depending on the age of the pet, for each procedure. Furthermore, almost all policies will require a co-pay of 10% to 20% of the veterinarian’s fee. 

And, of course, all pet health insurance policies have exclusions. One of the most common exclusions is the “pre-existing condition” exclusion, which can be classified as injuries, medical conditions and symptoms of concern that were evident prior to enrollment.  Other exclusions may include neutering/spaying, hip-dysplasia, vaccinations, flea control, heartworm medication, dental care, or limitations for certain illnesses not neutered prior to first birthday.  Be sure to ask all companies to see their policy before signing and make sure you read the fine print!